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April 2013

Friday, April 5, 2013

Kauai Chocolate Tour plus Nanea & Madre Chocolate Bars

P1100492In February I went to Hawaii, to the island of Kauai. One of the reasons I chose it for a vacation spot was that Hawaii is the only place in the United States where cacao can be grown. (I’ve seen a few trees here and there in botanical gardens, but I wanted to see them outside, fruiting.)

Kauai does not have a long history of growing cocoa, and it’s not an easy tree to grow. But there are some small farms that have planted cacao in the past 10 years and those trees are now bearing enough pods to make truly Hawaiian chocolate. (In fact, you can grow all three major ingredients on the islands: cacao, sugar and vanilla.)

There are a couple of places on Kauai to see cacao being grown, I chose a tour called Garden Island Chocolate Farm Tour led by Koa Kahili. Koa also runs Nanea Chocolate. What interested me in the tour was not just the chocolate but that fact that the tour would lead us through a small farm where we’d get to see and taste the fruits that grow on Kauai. I was hoping to get to taste some of the exotic tropical fruits we hadn’t seen in the grocery store or at the farmers market since we arrived on the island.

Cacao Flower

The tour was at a small location, something I’d call a demonstration farm, not a full plantation with acres and acres of each tree. About three dozen people gathered early in the morning, full of sunscreen and bug repellant. We walked around the small farm and Koa would pluck fruits from the trees and share them with us. There was a wide variety, some fruiting and others just flowering or dormant. We tried a few different kinds of oranges, grapefruit and limes. There was a large avocado tree, with avocados larger than grapefruits.

The highlight for me, of course, was the cacao. There was a small grove of small cacao trees planted in rows, not more than two dozen of them and not more than seven years old. They were about six feet tall and had full grown pods. Unlike apple or orange trees, which bear their flowers and later their fruits at the ends of the branches, the cacao puts out flower right on the trunk or branches (kind of like a fig tree does). The flowers are small (see above) and are pollinated by tiny flies.

The pods are tested for ripeness by scraping the shell with the back of machete or knife and it’s not green. Since there were not that many trees and the largest one nearby did have some pods, we could see that someone had tested those within grasp several times (the scratches turn black later).

P1100421

The key experience for me was the fresh cacao. One ripe pod was opened and passed around for each person in the group to take a bean and a little of the flesh. The rind is tough and stiff, kind of like a pumpkin, but more textured. Within that is a softer inner layer, then the pulpy center surrounding the 30-50 seeds. The beans are firm and fibery, about the size of a flattened pecan (in shell). The pulp is white and a cross between musk melon and mango. It’s tangy and watery with a stringy sort of syrupy texture. It has no relationship at all to the flavor of the roasted beans.

The seeds themselves are rather lilac in color, and taste, well, rather boring. A little acidic and lacking creamy oomph of the cocoa butter. Each pod, which weights about 400 grams, yields about 10% of its weight in dried, fermented beans. So one pod is about as much chocolate as is required for a nice, high quality chocolate bar. (If the bar contains 40 grams of cacao, which is then supplemented with another 15 grams of sugar to make a 72% cacao bar.)

P1100431

After harvest, pods are cracked open, the pulp and beans are scooped out and left to ferment. The fermentation process can be done “naturally”, which basically means they’re just left in a pile with some banana leaves covering them while they naturally ferment. But in some climates they need a little help and are put in wood boxes to keep the heat more regulated to reach the required temperature. The same goes with drying, which happens after the fermentation process is complete and the beans have turned dark red. The pulp is shed naturally as is some of the shell as they dry and are raked around. After that, they’re ready to be roasted and made into chocolate products. (Okay, I’ve really simplified this.)

Nanea Coconut Milk 60%The next part of the tour was a tasting. Instead of just sitting and eating piece after piece of chocolate, this was a little different. There were fruits as well as chocolate. Some of the chocolate was in bean form, some in bar form, some in truffle form and then fresh pieces of local fruits to mix it up and give us a rest. There were at least twelve tastings, which for me is a lot at once, and gets me pretty wired. (So some I opted out of, especially if they had stuff like, oh, lard in them.)

We tasted garlic chocolate and dark chocolate and nut infused chocolate and some with ginger and other spices. We ate raw beans and toasted beans. We tried soursop and shared an avocado the size of a cantaloup. It was interesting.

One of the most accessible bars Koa makes for his Nanea line is the Nanea Coconut Milk 60%. It’s just cacao, sugar, coconut and vanilla. It’s still a rather high cacao content bar, even for a dairy milk bar, so it’s a very strongly chocolate bar.

Nanea Coconut Milk 60%

I liked the simple packaging. The bar is wrapped in a heavy, paper-backed foil and then has a sleeve over it for the particular bar. Inside the sleeve is a great photo of cacao beans in a cacao pod. A lovely touch.

Nanea Coconut Milk 60%

The bar molding is simple. It’s a two ounce bar with segments across its width. Easy to snap into pieces.

You’ll need to like the flavor of coconut to love this bar. The fun part is that it uses coconut milk, not coconut flakes. So all the flavor is there, but none of the texture. The chocolate is a little chalky and robust. The coconut is sharp, kind of like a cheddar cheese can be sharp. It’s woodsy and nutty with a sort of cutting note towards the end. The cocoa has a lot of the same woodsy characteristics along with a wholesome fudge brownie batter flavor.

If you know someone who likes coconut but is also dairy averse, this is a great option.

Nanea Kauai Chocolate - Wainiha & Kilauea

My prize from this tour though was this small batch bar, Nanea Kauai Chocolate - Wainiha & Kilauea made only with beans from Kauai from two different plantations. The bar was untempered, which explains its chalky appearance and slight bloom. However, the texture is really nothing like you’d expect looking at it.

So I’m just going to describe my impressions, even though they don’t make sense. The texture is smooth and creamy but light, like a mousse on the tongue. That doesn’t mean that it’s actually airy, it just feels that way. It’s a little waxy at first, it takes a moment for the heat of my mother to melt the cocoa butter (remember this is untempered, which means that the cocoa butter has formed into one of its other crystalline forms). There’s a slight grit to it, but overall it’s consistently smooth. The flavors have a lot going on. There’s some orange blossom notes along with peppery carnations. Then there’s the bitter background, which reminded me a bit of beer. There’s also a sort of yeasty quality to it, like egg bread. When I first tried it, it was like eating Challah flavored chocolate. There are some light hints of smoke or maybe lapsang souchong tea. But what’s missing throughout out this is a sense of chocolate. Lots of chocolates, especially bars from single estates have strong flavors in them, but there’s always a sense of chocolate. In this bar I never really got the blatant and expected chocolate flavors.

Madre Chocolate Kaua'i Limited EditionOne bar I picked up while I was on the island wasn’t made by Nanea. It’s made on Oahu by Madre Chocolate. The Madre Chocolate Kaua’i Limited Edition is also made from Kauai-grown cacao.

This bar was tempered, I bought it at a farm-to-table restaurant shop called Common Ground in Kilauea. (I also picked up some cocoa butter soap there, too, which my mother gave rave reviews.) Though it’s a petite bar (only 1.5 ounces) it was $13. Islands, they’re expensive.

The bar traveled well. I always appreciate a really thick foil wrapping. (I also kept it in the fridge once I got to my hotel, which sounds extreme, but the fridge didn’t actually work and only kept our fruit at 70 degrees, which is perfect for chocolate.)

Madre Kauai Chocolate

The texture of this bar is exquisite, it’s smooth and has a quick melt with a burst of flavor. Some bars that have this quick melt have a thin flavor density. This is wonderfully nuanced. It’s floral, with jasmine notes along with the same eggy bread flavor that the Nanea Wailuia bar had. The woodsy flavors are green and grassy.

I loved the tour, though everyone who goes to something that like needs to be flexible about what will occur. Orchards, farms and plantations are places where stuff is grown, they’re on their own schedules. They have bugs and you’re outside and it may be hot or damp or smelly. A lot of the success depends on being open to whatever experience is presented. Koa was knowledgeable and affable, the grounds were easy to walk and there was a great variety of stuff to look at and taste. The rest of the group on the tour was also very good, including the children. The weather was cooperative. The price is a bit steep, at $55 each but it was also three hours and involved a lot of chocolate.

Related Candies

  1. Wow-Wee Maui Candy Bars
  2. Hershey’s Kisses with Macadamia Nuts
  3. Madre Chocolate: Dominican, Jaguar & Rosita de Cacao
  4. Christopher’s Good News
  5. Hawaiian Host Maui Caramacs
  6. Malie Kai: Waialua Estate Chocolate


Name: Coconut Milk 60%
    RATING:
  • SUPERB
  • YUMMY
  • TASTY
  • WORTH IT
  • TEMPTING
  • PLEASANT
  • BENIGN
  • UNAPPEALING
  • APPALLING
  • INEDIBLE
Brand: Nanea Chocolate
Place Purchased: Direct from Nanea (Kauai)
Price: $10.00
Size: 2 ounces
Calories per ounce:
Categories: All Natural, Candy, Chocolate, Coconut, 7-Worth It, United States


Name: Wainiha & Kilauea Chocolate Bar
    RATING:
  • SUPERB
  • YUMMY
  • TASTY
  • WORTH IT
  • TEMPTING
  • PLEASANT
  • BENIGN
  • UNAPPEALING
  • APPALLING
  • INEDIBLE
Brand: Nanea Chocolate
Place Purchased: Direct from Nanea (Kauai)
Price: $20.00
Size: 2 ounce
Calories per ounce:
Categories: All Natural, Candy, Chocolate, Ethically Sourced, Single Origin, 8-Tasty, United States


Name: Kaua’i Limited Edition Hawaiian Dark Chocolate 70%
    RATING:
  • SUPERB
  • YUMMY
  • TASTY
  • WORTH IT
  • TEMPTING
  • PLEASANT
  • BENIGN
  • UNAPPEALING
  • APPALLING
  • INEDIBLE
Brand: Madre Chocolate
Place Purchased: Common Ground (Kiluea, Kauai)
Price: $13.00
Size: 1.5 ounces
Calories per ounce:
Categories: All Natural, Candy, Madre Chocolate, Chocolate, Ethically Sourced, 8-Tasty, United States
Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Candy Tease: Bar None, Reed’s and Regal Crown Sours

Lately in the world of candy, the most exciting news has not been new candies but the reintroduction of discontinued candies. I’m talking about things like Astro Pops and Bonomo’s Turkish Taffy. So it’s not surprising to see a few more favorites coming back. Here are three that we might see later this year:

Regal Crown Revival
Name: Regal Crown Sours
Brand: Iconic Candy Brands (Vista Marketing)
Description: Regal Crown is a 9-Piece hard candy roll with individually wrapped pieces which comes in 4 flavors: Sour Cherry, Sour Lemon, Sour Orange and Sour Grape.
Introduction Date: 8/1/2013
Notes: Regal Crown Sours were lovely little candies, thicker than a Life Saver and with no hole. They came in single flavor rolls and each piece was individually wrapped in white waxed paper. I recall purchasing Sour Lemon almost exclusively and even though I was a huge candy fiend, I would always turn down any offer of a Sour Cherry since I didn’t like that flavor.

Reed's Revival

Name: Reed’s Hard Candies
Brand: Iconic Candy Brands (Vista Marketing)
Description: Reed’s is a 7-Piece hard candy roll with individually wrapped pieces which comes in 4 flavors: Butter Scotch, Root Beer, Cinnamon and Caramel
Introduction Date: 8/1/2013
Notes: Reed’s have not been gone for very long, I still have a few rolls left (not that I would eat them). Cinnamon and Root Beer were always my favorite. They were kettle boiled sweets with virtually no bubbles or voids in them. Like the Regal Crown sours, these are also individually wrapped, though in clear cellophane.

Bar None Revival

Name: BarNone
Brand: Iconic Candy Brands (Vista Marketing)
Description: BarNone is Back! It is a Chocolate wafer, enrobed in milk chocolate, cascaded with chopped peanuts and finally enrobed in milk chocolate.
Introduction Date: 8/1/2013
Notes: This is one of those lamented candy bars that was ruined before it was discontinued. Hershey’s brought it on the market with great fanfare, and then without any explanation, they changed the wide plank of a candy bar into two sticks and added caramel while taking away the crushed peanuts. Though that was still a candy bar with merit, it wasn’t nearly as spectacular or decadent as the original. My understand is that the original bar had some flaws in the design that made it hard to produce and even harder to get into stores in a sellable condition. The bars were too wide and the filling too soft and slippery; the chocolate coating wasn’t thick enough to give it the structural integrity it needed for its height. Hopefully the new version surmounts those issues while keeping the flavor and texture profile intact. More about the original Hershey’s Bar None here.

Here’s the review of the new Bar None.

What are you waiting to see revived?

Related Candies

  1. Astro Pop (Original Flavor)
  2. Bonomo’s Turkish Taffy - Chocolate, Vanilla & Strawberry
  3. Goodbye Tart n Tinys
  4. I Miss: Bar None
  5. Goodbye Reed’s
  6. Pink Grapefruit Mentos
  7. I Miss: Marathon
  8. Wonka’s Oompas

POSTED BY Cybele AT 2:18 pm     CandyNew Product AnnouncementHighlightFeatured News

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Candy Tease: April 2013

Bubble Gum Flavored PeepsName: Bubble Gum Flavored Peeps Marshmallow
Brand: Just Born
Description: Introducing 10 ct PARTY CAKE Flavored PEEPS® Marshmallow; 10 ct BUBBLE GUM Flavored PEEPS® Marshmallow; 2 ct LEMONADE Flavored PEEPS® Marshmallow and Marshmallow Chick in a Chocolate Egg.
Introduction Date: 04/30/13
Notes: Bubble Gum is a good flavor match for the delicate texture of a marshmallow. I find the whole idea a little odd, but I know myself well enough that I’ll probably be scouring the stores at the end of the month for them. I think the blue Party Cake Peeps have already been spotted in the wild. I’m less interested in Lemonade, but I am curious if they’ll be tangy or sweet like a meringue.

Smarties GummiesName: Smarties Gummies
Brand: Smarties
Description: Each chewy piece is two-toned with a creamy white paired with a colorful fruit-themed side. The medley of fruit flavors is inspired by the classic Smarties roll with a few twists! Strawberry, Orange, Lemon, Green Apple, Grape. Smarties Gummies are gluten-free, free of animal products and vegan. However, because they are made in a facility that processes other ingredients, they may contain traces of peanut, milk, wheat and soy.
Introduction Date: 1/1/2013
Note: Since they’re vegan, I have to note that they’re not really gummis, which contain gelatin or some other protein. These use starch as a gelling agent, which is great and all, but creates a different texture.

Gimbal's Cinnamon LoversName: Cinnamon Lovers
Brand: Gimbal’s Fine Candies
Description: These shiny red adorable heart-shaped candies are made with Real Cinnamon Oil and absolutely burst with scrumptious cinnamon heat. Cinnamon Lovers fun 9 oz laydown bags come packed 12 bags per convenient ready-to-display case. Founded in 1898, all Gimbal’s candies are free of major food allergens and made with pride in U.S.A.
Introduction Date: 09/15/2013
Notes: Gimbal’s made another awesome product called Lava Balls, I’m wondering how similar these will be. I’m also downright obsessed with the See’s Red Hot Hearts, which I’ve often suspected were made by Gimbal’s, so I’d say with wider distribution they’ll be a hit.

Alert Caffeine GumName: ALERT™ Energy Caffeine Gum
Brand: Wm. Wrigley Jr. Company
Description: A portable and approachable tailored energy solution. Contains: SORBITOL MALTITOL, GUM BASE, GLYCEROL, CAFFEINE LESS THAN 2% OF: NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL FLAVORS, ACACIA, SOY LECITHIN, MALIC ACID, ASPARTAME, COLORS (TITANIUM DIOXIDE, BLUE 2 LAKE, RED 40 LAKE), SUCRALOSE, ASPARTAME-ACESULFAME, CITRIC ACID, ACESULFAME K, CONFECTIONER’S GLAZE, BHT (TO MAINTAIN FRESHNESS), CARNAUBA WAX. PHENYLKETONURICS: CONTAINS PHENYLALANINE.
Introduction Date: 4/1/2013
Notes: If you’re looking for a caffeinated gum, this one contains 40 mg per piece, which is about a half of a cup of coffee. It also contains a lot of non-sugar sweeteners, including sugar alcohols like sorbitol and artificial sweeteners like aspartame, sucralose and AceK. Wrigley’s has been making a different version called Stay Alert for the US Military for years, but that one contains 100 mg per piece and doesn’t have such a fussy package.

CinnamoSticksName: Cinnamo Sticks
Brand: Atkinson Candy Company
Description: We proudly introduce our brand new 0.7 oz Cinnamo Sticks. This great tasting candy is bursting with cinnamon flavor and has wide appeal to kids of all ages. The clever box design features the Cinnamo Bandit character and the delicious taste will keep you coming back for more!
Introduction Date: 01/01/2013
Notes: I can’t decide if this is a cinnamon version of a Chick-o-Stick or just an aerated stick candy. I game to try it.

All images are courtesy of the respective manufacturers.

POSTED BY Cybele AT 5:19 pm     CandyNew Product AnnouncementAtkinson'sCe De CandiesGimbal's CandyJust BornHighlightFeatured News

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