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April 2007

Friday, April 27, 2007

FDA Chocolate Changes Coverage

It took a while for the media to pick up on the story, but momentum is building. Here’s the coverage that I’ve been following (partly because I’ve been interviewed). Here’s the FDA page for the proposal.

Coverage of the issue of changing food labeling and naming standards:

  • NPR - Talk of the Nation - 4/24/2007 (listen online and comment on the Blog of the Nation)
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  • Washington Post - Chocolate Purists Alarmed by Proposal To Fudge Standards: Lines Drawn Over Cocoa Butter by Michael S. Rosenwald (here’s the Appendix C that he mentions in the article)
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  • Bloomberg - Hershey Battles Chocolate Connoisseurs Over Selling ‘Mockolate’ by Adam Satariano
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  • ABC News - Changing the Fat in Chocolate: New Proposal Urges FDA to Allow Vegetable Oil Instead of Cacao Butter; Health Experts Say This Would Not Make Chocolate Healthier by Dan Childs.
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  • Los Angeles Times - The courage of their confections: Two candy makers are asking chocolate lovers to protest plans to allow cheaper ingredients. Vegetable oil, anyone? by Jerry Hirsch (and my follow-up Editorial)
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  • Patriot News - Could changes be coming for chocolate? by Tom Dochat
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  • San Francisco Chronicle - Guittard protests proposal to allow vegetable oil in chocolate by Carol Ness
  • I also did an interview this morning with ABC Radio News, so that may be airing today.

    Finally, in the NYTimes Magazine last week there was an interesting article: You Are What You Grow by Michael Pollan (The Omnivore’s Dilemma) about the farm bill and why we’re such a starchy, oily and plump nation.

    If you’re moved to respond, check out this page with a tutorial on how to leave a comment on the FDA’s comment page.

    POSTED BY Cybele AT 12:03 pm     Candy

    Dove Caramels & Chocolate Covered Almonds

    imageI tried the Dove chocolate last year and was pleased with it. It’s kind of a slick chocolate, both in packaging and in texture. They market this as silky, and I’m not sure if it’s the level of fat in it or the size of the particles of cocoa solids ... or perhaps both.

    While I’m not that keen on the plain bars, I got a note from some marketing folks offering me some of their other products and I figured, “what they hey!”

    The Dove line is built around their plain dark and milk chocolate, sold in single-serve bars and the more popular “Promises” which I think of as a hybrid of Hershey’s Kisses and Perugina Baci (pure chocolate plus a little note in the wrapper).

    image

    These aren’t called anything ... just Smooth Milk Chocolate with Caramel. The bronzy foil holds a little rounded chocolate square with a filling of a caramel-like goo.

    The wrappers also have little notes inside. Mine said things like Smile at yourself in the mirror and Sing along with the elevator music ... honey, I don’t need my candy telling me to sing out loud in public. I’m sure the folks at the Ralph’s on Glendale Blvd. are well aware of me belting out the 80s tunes when I visit and would probably hide these candies from me if they knew what they were telling me to do.

    The chocolate here is smooth and creamy, perhaps a little sticky and sweet. The caramel filling doesn’t really have enough of the true caramel qualities I like, such as a burnt sugar taste or soft chew. I wanted more salt. But the whole thing is tasty and certainly worth the price of admission (free with my comp). But the thing that’s most appealing to me was how photogenic they were.

    6 out of 10

    image

    The second item that’s much more up my alley is the Smooth Milk Chocolate Covered Almonds. I think the publicist who sent these to me intended to give me the dark chocolate ones, as there were two bags of milk chocolate in my little box. Oh well. The almonds are rather good, not as large and choice as the Trader Joe’s version that I often pick up, but there wasn’t a bad one in the bunch. They’re nicely toasted and crunchy. The chocolate is sweet and offsets the almond’s toasty flavors pretty well.

    7 out of 10

    At a regular price of $3.50 a bag, I don’t think I’d get these, except maybe if I was stuck in an airport and looking for something to bring on the plane. Both bags are easy to open and reclose, which is always a plus. I would probably pick them up on sale if I could get them for something like $2.50 though.

    Related Candies

    1. Dove Desserts Bananas Foster
    2. Dove Silky Smooth Milk Chocolate Bars
    3. Hershey’s Heart’s Desire
    4. Sconza 70% Dark Chocolate Toffee Almonds
    5. Cocoavia Chocolate Almonds
    Name: Dove Caramels & Milk Chocolate Covered Almonds
      RATING:
    • 10 SUPERB
    • 9 YUMMY
    • 8 TASTY
    • 7 WORTH IT
    • 6 TEMPTING
    • 5 PLEASANT
    • 4 BENIGN
    • 3 UNAPPEALING
    • 2 APPALLING
    • 1 INEDIBLE
    Brand: Dove (Mars)
    Place Purchased: samples from Dove
    Price: retail $3.49
    Size: 6.21 ounces & 4.5 ounces
    Calories per ounce: 142 & 160
    Categories: Chocolate, Caramel, Nuts, United States, Mars, Kosher

    POSTED BY Cybele AT 10:29 am    

    Thursday, April 26, 2007

    Washington Post: It’s not Over

    The article in the Washington Post appeared on their website a little while ago.

    Chocolate Purists Cry Foul as FDA Fudges Standards
    Proposal Whips Up a Food Fight
    By Michael S. Rosenwald

    Here are a few interesting passages:

    Chocolate purists, of which there are apparently many, have undertaken a grassroots letter-writing campaign to the FDA to inform the agency that such a change to the standards is just not okay with them. More than 225 comments to the petition have been processed so far by the agency, and chocolate bloggers are pressing for more. In the annals of bureaucratic Washington battles, this is a sweet one.

    When I talked to Michael Rosenwald about what happens to those comments we submitted on the website, he said that the 225 number was just what they’ve processed. On the FDA website, in their dockets section they have a Daily Listing which shows what they’ve processed lately. They post updates every weekday, however they don’t necessarily process the comments immediately. There’s a big gap between the processed comments since April 16th was the only one I found and then they posted a list on April 23rd. I don’t know how many more are in the queue ... hopefully enough.

    Kirk Saville, a Hershey’s spokesman, said it was “premature to speculate on any changes before the process is complete.” He was more expansive in speaking to the Harrisburg Patriot-News, in the company’s back yard, saying “There are high-quality oils available which are equal to or better than cocoa butter in taste, nutrition, texture and function, and are preferred by consumers.”

    I’m not an industry insider working at a mega huge company like Hershey’s, so I don’t know about this high quality oil that’s equal to or better than cocoa butter.

    From the department of cooler heads comes Nick Malgieri, the director of the baking program at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York.

    “I think a lot of people don’t realize that this would be optional,” Malgieri said. “No one is going to force a high-class chocolate maker to add vegetable fat to chocolate.” Asked if fine chocolate would just melt away, he said, “Absolutely not.”

    This is so true. Just like there’s crappy real chocolate and really good chocolate right now. However, I think that gap will get wider.

    If you have comments for the FDA, tell the directly!

    POSTED BY Cybele AT 6:11 pm     CandyFDANews

    Soda Can Fizzy Candy

    imageSometimes I pick up crazy things at the Dollar Tree that I wouldn’t ordinarily buy. I’ve gotten a few emails about Jones Soda’s new line of fizzy pop flavored candies. I saw that they’re going for over $2 a tin for 50 candy bits but I couldn’t find out if they use sugar in them or artificial sweeteners so I decided to go on the prowl for the something else. (I was afraid they were going to be like those expensive and lackluster Bawls.)

    I went to the Dollar Tree in search of Easter goodies and came away with this little sixpack. The little pop can looking packages hold 30-35 little carbonated candies in four flavors (two cans each): Grape Splash, Lemon-Lime Sprint, Orange Crash and Loca Cola.

    The little candies are almost like the original Tart n Tiny candies (except these have a slight dome on either end of the bitty cylindral instead of being flat).

    image

  • Orange Crash - a mellow orange that’s completely faithful to cheap orange soda. Tangy, a little fizzy and slightly medicinal tasting, I’m guessing because it has a distinct “mineral water” after-taste.

  • Lemon-Lime Sprint (2 of these) - the lime is quite the leader here, not as tart as the orange, but kind of like tonic water overall.

  • Grape Splash (2 of these) - oh, this is ABSOLUTELY grape soda condensed into a wee tablet! The fizz, the fake grape ... I can just feel the chilly purple anodized aluminum tumbler I used to drink Shasta Grape Pop out of at my grandmother’s as I write this.

  • Loca Cola - this is one of those candies that I long for, something to give me the cola experience since I don’t drink sodas. I love the taste of cola, this has the tangy and spicy notes down pretty well. Not quite as good as a Haribo Gummi Cola Bottle, but it’ll do.

  • As a novelty item, I think they’re fun. I wouldn’t buy these and shovel them down day after day, but they’re a fun little diversion ... a novelty candy. Because the package comes with six little cans, they might make a nice little theme element if you’re planning a party or gift basket or just a little pick-me-up to leave in a co-worker’s cubicle.

    Each can contains only 7 grams of candy that adds up to 25 calories. So they certainly have the portion control down.

    (For a little perspective, the cans are 2” high and 1” in diameter ... in case you were going to look for them at the store and were expecting something as big as the picture on your screen.)

    Name: Soda Can Fizzy Candy
      RATING:
    • 10 SUPERB
    • 9 YUMMY
    • 8 TASTY
    • 7 WORTH IT
    • 6 TEMPTING
    • 5 PLEASANT
    • 4 BENIGN
    • 3 UNAPPEALING
    • 2 APPALLING
    • 1 INEDIBLE
    Brand: Kidsmania (Candy Novelties)
    Place Purchased: Dollar Tree (Harbor City)
    Price: $1.00
    Size: 1.47 ounces
    Calories per ounce: 102
    Categories: Chalk (Compressed Dextrose), Carbonated, China

    POSTED BY Cybele AT 6:57 am    

    Wednesday, April 25, 2007

    FDA Extends Comment Period to June 25

    Don’t Mess With Our Chocolate announced that the public comment period has been extended to

    May 25, 2007

    June 25, 2007.

    I’m so happy to hear that the momentum that’s built up over the last few days will lead to more people will be able to properly read up and make their comments. This also provides all of us an opportunity to contemplate what else might be in that FDA Petition that we haven’t thoroughly considered, so you might want to review it again with that in mind.

    As for the Keep it Real Raffle? Well, the current one ends today, but I’ll run another one for the next month as well (different but equally scrumptious prize). So if you feel like keeping the conversations going out there and spreading the word even further, there will be another opportunity to win.

    Hopefully we’ll all win when we Keep it Real.

    UPDATE 4/27/2007: The comment form has been restored on the FDA site featuring a new expiration date of June 25th. I’ve revised this post to reflect the newest information.

    POSTED BY Cybele AT 10:20 am     CandyFDANews

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